You've relied on retinol for a long time. You've seen those fine lines soften, sunspots lighten, and your uneven skin tone regained that healthy glow. But now, things are different. After menopause, your go-to retinol might not be working after all. It has started causing irritation, dryness, and other small skin concerns.
So, what’s going on? The answer is menopausal skin, and its explanation is the hormone levels and the hormonal changes happening inside your body.
The Hormonal Change That Affects Your Skin for Good
Menopause brings more than just mood swings and hot flashes; it really changes your skin. With less estrogen, your skin's structure and ability to heal itself or renew dead skin cells takes a hit. Retinol, which used to work wonders on your younger healthy skin, now has a harder time. Your skincare routine isn't the same.
1. Slower Skin Renewal: The Main Challenge After Menopause
Estrogen is the kingpin that plays a crucial role in keeping your skin looking youthful. One of its jobs is to help your skin shed dead skin cells and bring in new, fresh ones. A process, that scientifically termed as skin cell turnover.
But after menopause, estrogen levels can drop sharply, by about 50% and start slowing down skin renewal by another 30% which is a whole lot and leads to loss of collagen and appearance of wrinkles. One study noted this estrogen drop and collagen degradation resets how your skin reacts to products like retinol, which relies on that renewal process. It’s like trying to start a car that’s not working well.
Lower estrogen leads to thinner skin type, with slower wound healing, and a weaker barrier function, as noted in Dermato-Endocrinology, 2012.
The end result of all this? You have skin that looks dull and irritated and doesn’t respond to retinol like it used to.
2. Thinner, More Sensitive Skin
When menopause hits, your skin can get a lot thinner, by about 40%,and with the massive hormonal fluctuations, this means that you develop sensitive skin which also means that your usual skincare products, like retinol, can penetrate deeper than intended, leading to redness, peeling, and irritation.
Postmenopausal women show a noticeable thinning of the dermis and epidermis, which makes the skin more fragile and sensitive to skincare ingredients and products. As noted by the British Journal of Dermatology, 2005
So, if your typical 0.5% concentration of retinol starts to feel like it’s burning, it’s not just in your head: it’s your body's reaction.
3. Collagen Loss: The Shortage
Retinol is well-known for helping boost collagen production, collagen offers the building blocks for firm and structured skin. But there’s a downside: after menopause, your body makes less estrogen, which also means less collagen levels. Studies suggest women can lose up to 30% of their collagen in the first five years after menopause. Losing that much collagen leads to a significant decline in skin elasticity, making it more prone to sagging, fine lines, and a crepey skin texture.
According to the North American Menopause Society, retinol is a potent ingredient that encourages collagen production, but skin with low estrogen has lower levels of collagen and therefore doesn’t have what it needs to support Retinol and it becomes like ‘building a house without brick’. As your skin might not respond well to not just retinol anymore, but all those anti-aging creams may seem kind of pointless.
What to Use Instead: Menopause-Friendly Alternatives That Actually Work
The good news is, your skin isn’t in trouble forever. It just needs a fresh approach that fits the changes that your body is going through and you can give it the right support with the right effective ingredients
1. Bakuchiol: A Plant-Based Alternative to Retinol
Bakuchiol is a natural ingredient that comes from the Psoralea corylifolia plant and works like retinol but without irritation. Studies have found that bakuchiol can help the skin during menopause with reducing wrinkles & dark spots, and enhancing skin firmness just like retinol, but it won’t dry out your skin or cause skin sensitivity.
To quote the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2018,
“Bakuchiol is a solid alternative to retinol: backed by research, plant-based, and gentle on sensitive skin.”
Products to try:
Squalane & Phyto-Retinol Serum: This combines bakuchiol with squalane to combat skin dryness, keep your skin hydrated and help reduce fine lines without causing peels or redness.
2. Peptides: Boosting Collagen Without Scrubbing
Peptides are small chains of amino acids that play a crucial role in signaling your skin to make more collagen and upgrade elastin production. Unlike retinol, they don’t peel your skin; they target the problem directly.
Dermatologists love copper peptides, which can improve the loss of elasticity, make skin firmer, lessen fine lines, and speed up healing for mature skin.
Peptides don’t irritate and work well to promote skin cell turnover, and are the perfect for skin renewal and skin that lacks estrogen.
Product suggestion:
Look for serums or creams with peptides like Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, or Copper Peptides to help rebuild your skin without worrying about irritation and effects of retinol.
3. Encapsulated Retinol: A Smarter Choice
If you're not ready to ditch the retinol yet, consider encapsulated retinol. Encapsulation is a method that wraps retinol in tiny spheres, letting it soak in slowly. This means less irritation and better absorption for the product
Some encapsulated skincare products options include:
· Retinaldehyde, which is a gentler version of retinoic acid
· Night serums with encapsulated retinol made for sensitive or aging skin
Tip: Look for products that mix encapsulated retinol with ceramides or hyaluronic acid for added moisture and protection.
4. The Sandwich Method: A Great Tip for Retinol Users Over 50
Even if you're using a gentler form of retinol, how you apply it matters.
Try the Sandwich Method: this has been talked about a lot on social including TikTok
· Start with moisturizer with hydrating ingredients
· Apply retinol
· Finish with moisturizer again
This technique helps shield your skin from irritation, making it easier to handle active ingredients.
A 2020 study showed that menopausal women who used this sandwich method experienced 67% less irritation and saw 45% better results compared to applying retinol on bare skin. Dermatologic Surgery, 2020 says
“Putting on a lightweight moisturizer on before and after retinol helps reduce water loss and inflammation in skin affected by decreased estrogen.”
Takeaway: Your Menopause-Safe Retinol Guide
Your skin goes through changes, and that's perfectly normal. What you used in your 30s and 40s might not work for you anymore, but you don't have to settle for dull skin.
Here’s a simple guide to switch to menopause-friendly skincare:
|
Traditional Retinol Product |
Menopause-Safe Alternative |
|
0.5–1% Retinol Serum |
Bakuchiol Serum, Squalane & Phyto-Retinol |
|
Retinol Creams |
Peptide-Based Creams (with Copper Peptides) |
|
Standard Retinol |
Encapsulated Retinol or Retinaldehyde |
|
Direct Application |
The Sandwich Method Application |
Ready to switch to skincare that works with your hormones? 👉 Visit makhzan.ae to find hormone-friendly products that are in tune with your body. All made with powerful ingredients to nourish and strengthen your skin.
Aging is just a change, not a problem. Like any change, it needs some new ideas and skincare routines. Retinol might not be the best for your skin anymore, but there are great alternatives out there from nature and science.
Your glow can stick around; it just needs a smarter plan.
FAQs
Why do I suddenly have ‘mustache shadows’ or upper-lip darkening after menopause?
This is melasma, often referred to as a melasma mustache, is a common issue for many women after menopause. It happens due to hormonal changes that increase the effect of testosterone. While this type of melasma is linked to hormones, it can get worse with sun exposure and inflammation. A good way to tackle it is to focus on both reducing pigment and addressing the causes. Consider using Tranexamic acid with SPF. You might also want to try Niacinamide, which helps with inflammation and pigment transfer, or natural brighteners like Licorice Root and Alpha Arbutin that are gentle yet effective with natural moisturising factors.
Can menopause make you allergic to products you’ve used forever?
Yes, hormonal changes can change how your skin reacts, even to products you’ve been using forever. Quick tip: Always do a patch test on your inner arm with new or even old products before putting them on your face. Adjust your daily skincare routine to feature the new products that work for you.
Does menopause make sunscreen sting your eyes more?
Yeah, it can. Infact it can be a common symptom because thinner skin and dryness can lead to more irritation. Try using mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide instead.
Can menopause cause dark circles even if I sleep enough?
This happens because of loss of fat under the eyes and low iron levels, which is common during menopause. Using topical caffeine and taking iron supplements can help.
Can menopause make you allergic to products you’ve used forever?
Yes. Because your immune system changes with hormones, so it's a good idea to always test new products on your inner arm or jawline first. Also adjust your daily skincare routine to feature the new products that work for you.