Do’s & Don’ts You Probably Didn’t Know
Exfoliation can really help your skin, but even pros can mess it up sometimes. It’s not just about not going overboard; there are some surprising tips that can really make a difference. Whether you’re into acids, enzymes, or scrubs, these tips will help you exfoliate the right way.
Here are some dos and don’ts for exfoliation:
Don’t Exfoliate on Wet Skin (If You’re Using Acids)
When your skin is wet, the outer layer of your skin also known as stratum corneum gets a bit puffy and more open to allow products to enter. Using acids like AHAs or BHAs on damp skin can be risky because they can go way too deep into the skin and cause irritation, burns, or damage to your skin barrier.
So, the trick is to always use chemical exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs on completely dry skin. Just wait about 5 minutes after washing your face before applying.
Do Use Enzymes Before Using Retinol
Enzymes like papain from papaya, bromelain from pineapple, and pumpkin enzymes help break down dead skin cells without any scrubbing. This leaves your skin surface smoother, so retinol can soak in better, evenly and work more effectively.
To do this effectively, put on your enzyme mask or cleanser, like a Pumpkin Enzyme Mask. Then rinse it off and then apply your retinol. A little tip: enzymes are great for sensitive skin that doesn’t do well with acids and retinol mixed together.
Don’t Mix Glycolic Acid and Vitamin C
Glycolic acid works best at a certain pH level, and vitamin C needs a lower pH. As a result there is a pH clash. Glycolic acid working at a pH range of 3 to 4, and vitamin C needing a slightly lower pH range of less than 3.5. When you mix them, you can destabilize vitamin C and increase skin irritation due to low pH overlap.
To solve this, you’ll need a small morning evening skincare routine, where in the morning, you apply vitamin C to clean, dry skin, then put on sunscreen. In the evening, you use glycolic acid as a toner or treatment, followed by an everyday moisturizer.
Note: Some vitamin C forms, like THD ascorbate, work well with AHAs.
Use a Coffee Scrub for Elbows and Knees Right After a Shower
Taking a hot shower helps soften your skin and opens your pores, even in tougher spots for better exfoliation. Using coffee grounds can gently scrub away dead skin smoothen rough areas, and the caffeine in it gives your skin a little lift for tightening the skin temporarily.
You can make your own DIY coffee scrub at home:
- Mix 2 tablespoons of coffee grounds with 1 tablespoon of coconut oil and 1 teaspoon of honey.
- Massage it onto your damp skin. Please make sure your skin is not too wet. Then after the coffee scrub massager, rinse it off, and follow up with your lightweight moisturizer.
Just a heads-up: try to stick to this treatment 1 to 2 times a week to avoid any irritation from over-scrubbing. Also be careful using coffee grounds on the face as coffee grounds can be too abrasive for facial skin.
So how do I exfoliate based on my Skin Type
Here is what works best
- Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Use BHAs like Salicylic Acid at 0.5 to 2%. These helps clear out your pores by breaking down oil and dead skin. You can also incorporate clay and enzyme masks. A mix of kaolin clay and papaya enzymes keeps your face from getting too oily without drying it out. Niacinamide is also good for oil control and calming. Not forgetting gentle physical scrubs once a week: Just be sure to use gentle scrubs with fine jojoba beads or rice bran powder to keep your pores clear. Tip: Exfoliate skin about 3 to 4 times a week, switching between BHA and enzymes. Just don’t go overboard with it, or it might actually make your skin produce more oil.
- Dry or Flaky Skin: Your best exfoliants for flaky skin are lactic acid at 5 to 10%. Lactic acid is great for keeping your skin hydrated while helping to remove dead skin. You can also work with Urea at 5%. This one’s gentle and helps break down dead skin while adding moisture to dehydrated skin. Creamy scrubs and sugar scrubs with oils like almond or squalane work well. Tips: Try to exfoliate once or twice a week, especially on dry areas like your cheeks and chin. Don’t forget to put on a ceramide moisturizer afterward to help keep your skin hydrated. Please also note that sugar scrubs as body exfoliators should be extremely fine and should not be overused for physical exfoliation as they can cause micro-tears.
- Sensitive or Rosacea Skin: Your best bets for reactive skin are PHAs like Gluconolactone and Lactobionic Acid. These ingredients have bigger molecules, so they're less likely to irritate your skin. You can also work with oatmeal or rice powder scrubs as they are gentle and soothing while helping to smooth your skin. Mandelic Acid at 5% will work as an anti-inflammatory for redness prone skin and is easy your sensitive skin. A few tips: Exfoliate skin once a week, but skip it if your skin is sensitive. Stay away from products with fragrances, alcohol, and those gritty face scrubs. Always patch-test acids on your jawline before using them all over. Also, avoid hot water and always moisturize afterwards to keep your skin healthy because your skin is very sensitive to temperature and dryness.
- Combination Skin: Use Azelaic Acid at 10%. This exfoliating acid helps to exfoliate and reduce redness and is perfect for the T-zone and dry cheeks. You can also work with pumpkin enzymes as they give gentle enzyme exfoliation without drying your skin out. Try out dual-sided pads and Use BHA for oily spots like acid exfoliation for your forehead and nose, and lactic acid for drier areas. Tip: Exfoliate skin 2 to 3 times a week and feel free to change it up based on what your skin needs.
- Mature Skin: Try Glycolic Acid at 5 to10%. This acid exfoliation helps with collagen production and getting rid of dead skin cells. Use retinol and enzymes and remember to start with the enzymes to prep your skin. You can try micro-dermabrasion to tackle fine lines. But please note that doing microdermabrasion at home is safe only if done with gentle suction or crystal-free tips so best find a professional for this. Tips: Exfoliate skin 2 to 3 times a week, switching between glycolic and retinol on different nights. Don't forget to use SPF afterward since AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun.
Common Exfoliation Mistakes to Avoid
- Don't exfoliate active breakouts; just use spot treatment for those, you can also use targeted anti-inflammatory ingredients for acne prone skin like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and sulfur.
- Avoid mixing exfoliants with retinoids unless your skin's used to it.
- Don't scrub too hard, as that can cause tiny tears in your skin.
- Don’t exfoliate skin after dermaplaning; wait at least 3 days.
- Don't mix niacinamide with DIY acids, since it can irritate your skin due to unregulated PH. Understand that Niacinamide can be layered with acids, but DIY acids like lemon juice or apple cider vinegar can be highly irritating and unstable.
- And don’t scrub breakouts or acne; use a targeted treatment instead.
- Don't scrub your skin under running water. It can cause irritation.
- Don’t use rough scrubs when your skin is soaking wet, especially apricot shells or salt.
- Skip exfoliating if your skin is already red or irritated from sunburn, or razor burns.
Final Tip: Pay Attention to Your Skin
If it stings, hurts, turns red, or starts to peel, take it easy. You want exfoliation to give you a glow, not damage your skin. So try using exfoliating skincare less often or switch to something gentler.
FAQs
Is it safe to scrub in the shower?
Yes, just make sure of that: your skin's a bit wet, not dripping. The scrub you're using is a fine scrub that is oil based, like coffee mixed with coconut oil. And be gentle, so no rough scrubbing! Also avoid using the scrub for facial use in hot water shower, because this can dilate blood vessels and worsen redness.
Can exfoliation cause breakouts?
Yes, but only if you go overboard with your exfoliating routine, as that can cause redness and flaking, which means your skin barrier might be messed up. If you also use scrubs that can clog your pores, like ones with plastic beads which are banned in most countries. If you forget to put on a lightweight moisturizer afterwar exfoliation. So, make sure you don’t do any of these.
What’s the best exfoliant for dark spots?
Use Vitamin C in the morning to brighten your skin. At night, try Mandelic acid, which is a gentle acid that helps reduce dark spots. Niacinamide and azelaic acid also help reduce pigmentation without irritation. Just be careful not to exfoliate too much, as it can make hyperpigmentation worse.
Can I exfoliate before and after shaving?
Before Shaving: Absolutely! Please go ahead and exfoliate as it helps stop ingrown hairs. Try using lactic acid or a gentle scrub.
After Shaving: No. Give it 24 to 48 hours before exfoliating your freshly shaved skin to avoid irritation.
Disclaimer: This article is for educational purposes only and not a substitute for professional dermatological advice.